Nothing could compare to the comfort of having the peace of mind that your vehicle is a safe vehicle to drive. No soft seat or other whatnot could give you that, except keeping your vehicle in tip-top shape. This includes the very crucial braking system. Your brake rotors are important components in the braking system. Need to replace your brake rotors? Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to change your brake rotors.

CHANGING YOUR BRAKE ROTORS:

STEP 1—First off, your car needs to be jacked up. In the event that a lift isn’t handy, you can follow these simple instructions to improvise:

Using a flat screw, pry off the hub cap. Turn the wheels lugs loose, this will reduce the rocking motion once the car has been jacked up. Consult the owner’s manual that comes with the car to determine the ideal jacking spot in the chassis.

Lock the back wheel, either with a brick or a good piece of fire wood. Put the jack under the spot specified in the manual and jack the car up. Once the jack supports the car, remove the lug nuts from the wheel hub. The wheel should then slide off by itself.

You can reinforce the steering table of the car by placing a jack stand under it. This will further stabilize the car. Also, make sure that the steering wheels are turned toward the wheel your are going to work on, so you can have ample elbow room when working on it.

STEP 2—Next, ease the pressure in the brake system. It is important to do this because, as breaks wear out, the caliper pistons get displaced and draws hydraulic fluid into the brake system. Since we are going to realign the pistons, and in the process pushing the brake fluid out, we need to release its hydraulic pressure. Pop the hood open and turn the cap covering the master cylinder. You can then hear the hissing sound of pressure released and are now ready to work on the brakes.

STEP 3—The most visible brake system part you’ll see in the open hub of the wheel is the caliper. It is held on by two bolts. Usually, a socket wrench is used to remove the pistons. Some car makes require an allen key instead. Remove the two guide-pin bolts and force back the piston using a screw driver. Insert the screw driver in the gap between the brake pads and the piston. Work the screw driver slightly and firmly, until the caliper eases up and can be removed easily.

STEP 4—Now you ought to be able to remove the brake pads easily. Use a screw driver to pry the pads off. Check the pads for cracks and wear. As mentioned earlier there are cars equipped with a sensor that reports whether the brake pads need any replacement. If the pads were never a problem previously, they’re all right. But, if you can already see cracks and rust, braking may be compromised and this may be the ideal time to replace them.

STEP 5—After the pads, we’re now ready to remove the rotor. First, remove the caliper bracket. It is fastened by a pair of caliper bolts behind the bracket. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolts and give a little tug to the caliper bracket.

After the bracket comes off, use a hammer to apply some persuasion on the rotors. There are rotors that come off very easily. Usually, they are relatively new and have not taken to rusting on the hubs yet.

STEP 6—Once the rotor has been removed, you ought to be on the lookout for rotor wear. Because the rotor is the primary brake system part that takes the brunt of friction to retard the motion of the car, it is not uncommon that rotors sometimes warp, or become deformed due to friction heat. The uneven wear on a rotor, called warping, can result in erratic braking. When you see your rotor warped, you can either replace it or send it to a repair shop to have its contact surface flattened.

Also, clean the hub for any brake dust and rust. These gunks can make the brakes unreliable. Using a wire brush, give the hub a good scraping.

STEP 7—Installing a new rotor, wipe the rotor clean first. If you have a brake cleaner, give the rotor a little spray. This is done to remove the oil and gunk that often accompany the rotor from the production shops. They are conducive to rust, so it is very important that the rotor is clean. Once the rotor is free from contaminants, just slide the rotor onto the hub.

STEP 8—When the rotor is safely placed on the hub, mount the caliper bracket. Make sure that antirattle pads, called shims, are pulled off the caliper. Use a wire brush to clean the shims. Shims with brake pads residue stuck on the bracket can impede on the contact between the pads and rotor during brake operations.

Also, before putting in the caliper, pull the pins that join the bracket out and give them ample lubrication. As in any assembly, proper lubrication guarantees efficient operation. If you decide on a new set of shims, this is the stage of brake maintenance that you can fit them on the caliper bracket. New shims make contact with the rotor firmer and reduce the rattle from friction.

STEP 9—Next to the shims, fit the brake pads on the caliper. Make sure that the correct friction surface of the pads is on the side facing the rotor. Ostensibly easy but this is really an easy place to make a mistake. If there is a metallic noise during braking, it means you have installed the pads backwards.

When the pads are on the caliper bracket, we are ready to fit it back on to the hub. The rule is, first off goes last in. The parts go back on the same way they come off. Before installing the caliper, consult your car’s manual for the torque recommendation that the caliper bolts require.

Now, we are going to push the brake piston back into its place because it has moved out when we set to work on the brake pads. Get a worn brake pad or any hard-surfaced material and put it on the piston. Clamp the caliper and, using the old pad, push the piston in evenly toward its starting point.

You will know the status of your brake pistons when they cannot be pushed in easily. When the piston resists, don’t force the piston in and consult a mechanic. Otherwise, the piston will just go in without resistance.

STEP 10—After the piston is set we are now ready to put in the caliper. From this point on the hub will now be populated with the brake system parts, so last-minute checks usually precedes the caliper installation. Do a quick check on the caliper. Make sure that the guides are clean. Also, inspect the brake hose for leaks.

STEP 11—Once the piston is on the hub and caliper bolts are set on the recommended torque specification, fit the caliper in and fit it tight. Remember, loose parts have no place in a brake system. When the parts have gone in all right, put the wheel back on. With the car jacked up, don’t tighten the lugs yet, just enough to fasten the wheels snugly on the hub.

STEP 12—Next, lower down the jack and when the wheel touch the ground, tighten the lugs using a torque wrench. Remember to set the wheel on the specified torque recommended in the manual for your car’s make and year.

STEP 13—IMPORTANT. We have set the caliper piston in the starting position, which means you have to give the brake pedal some three or four pumps first before it comes up and gets firmer. Your car will not have brake with its piston in the starting position, so make sure the brake pedal feels normal before driving. Also, check the brake fluid and top it up if necessary. Once done, your car is ready you can now take to driving without worries.

Need new brake rotors? Find your replacement brake rotors here!